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Mouse Sensitivity Guide: cm/360 and Aim Practice

Sensitivity is the most discussed and most misunderstood thing in aim training. Most people ask "what should I use" — but the real question is "what is my current sensitivity costing me".

The short version: there is no universal best sensitivity. Among pro players you will find both 20cm/360 and 60cm/360, and both play great. But for any one person, at a given stage, there is a range that clearly suits them better. This article is about how to find it.

What cm/360 Is

cm/360 means: how many centimeters the mouse travels on the pad for your in-game view to turn exactly one full circle. It merges two variables — mouse DPI and in-game sensitivity — into a single number, so it can be compared across setups.

The formula is: `cm/360 = 360 / (DPI × in-game sensitivity × degrees per count) × 2.54`. You do not need to work it out yourself — the Settings page on this site gives you the result directly from the DPI and in-game sensitivity you enter.

Why convert to cm/360: because "sensitivity 2.0" means completely different things at different DPIs. Only as cm/360 can your number be compared with anyone else's, and only then does your feel stay consistent after you change mouse or DPI.

Low vs High Sensitivity

The tradeoff is blunt, and there is no free lunch:

Low sensitivity (over 40cm)High sensitivity (under 25cm)
PrecisionHigh — the same hand error moves your view lessLow — every hand tremor gets amplified
Turn speedSlow — needs a big arm swingFast — a small wrist move turns you around
Long-session comfortGood — mostly arm, hard to tire outPoor — the wrist stays tense, and it wears on you over time
SuitsStatic targets, long range, pre-aimingClose range, fast turns, wide tracking

For most people the sensible range is 30–50cm/360. Below 20 it gets very hard to hold spray control steady; above 70 you will not keep up with close-range lateral movement.

How to Find the One That Fits You

  1. Set your DPI first, then never touch it again. 800 or 1600 are the common picks. Every adjustment after this changes only in-game sensitivity.
  2. Start from a middle value, something like 40cm/360. The Settings page on this site will work backwards to the in-game sensitivity you should enter.
  3. Use the tracking mode to test your lower limit: if you keep falling behind when the target strafes and you have to lift and reposition the mouse over and over, that is too low (or your mousepad is too small).
  4. Use the micro-adjust mode to test your upper limit: if you keep overshooting small targets and have to correct back and forth, that is too high.
  5. Change one thing at a time, about 5%, then practice for 3 days before judging. The "this feels better" you get right after a change is usually an illusion — it is just novelty.
The most common mistake is changing sensitivity constantly. Muscle memory is built on a scale of weeks. If you adjust every day, you never leave the "still not used to it" stage, and no amount of practice will move you forward.

When You Should Adjust It

Sensitivity is not something you set once forever, but adjustments should be triggered by a clear reason, not by a bad day:

Conversely, these are not reasons to change sensitivity: a bad day, a losing streak, or seeing someone else do well on some number.

How It Relates to Practice

Sensitivity sets the efficiency ceiling of your practice, not the height you can reach. On a less than ideal sensitivity, as long as you keep it fixed, you can still get very good — some actions will just cost you more effort.

What actually drives progress is the quality of your practice: whether you are training a specific skill on purpose, whether you look at your data, whether you keep grinding when you are tired. All of that matters far more than sensitivity.

Work out your current cm/360 and see which range it falls in.

Open the sensitivity converter