Choosing a Mousepad: Speed, Control, Size and Thickness

Two kinds of friction: starting and sliding

Pads are usually described as "speed" or "control". Those words really describe two kinds of friction: how much force it takes to get the mouse moving from rest, called static friction, and how much drag it has while already sliding, called kinetic friction.

Neither is more "advanced". Control pads make stopping easy but tire the arm on long tracking. Speed pads make movement easy but need better control to stop on small targets. When unsure, a balanced pad is the safest start.

Cloth or hard?

Cloth pads, a woven top over a rubber base, are the most common. They feel balanced to controlled, the mouse feet sink in slightly for a cushioned feel, they are quiet and come at every price. The drawback is sensitivity to the environment: humid air slows them down, and long use polishes shiny patches that make the glide uneven.

Hard pads use plastic, aluminium or glass. They are usually fast and smooth, barely affected by humidity, and clean with a wipe. The drawbacks are noise, faster wear on mouse feet, a cold surface under the wrist in winter, and some players find stopping harder to control.

Size: work it out from your sensitivity

The simplest test is whether you can make a 180° turn without lifting the mouse. A half turn needs half your cm/360. Compare that with the pad width and leave room for the mouse itself and some margin.

The minimum lets you start from the centre and turn half a circle to one side without leaving the pad. If you arm-aim or want to turn both ways without lifting, go one size wider. Depth of 30 to 40 cm is usually enough, mainly so your elbow and forearm have room when you aim up and down.

Among common sizes, a square pad around 45 × 40 cm suits medium to high sensitivity, an extended pad around 49 × 42 cm suits medium to low sensitivity, and a 90 × 40 cm desk mat fits the keyboard too and gives the most room, provided your desk is big enough.

Thickness and edges

• Thickness: usually 3 to 5 mm. Thicker pads are softer, hide an uneven desk and feel kinder on the wrist, but the mouse sinks slightly and stops feel stickier. Thin pads feel more direct. On a flat desk, 3 to 4 mm suits most people.
• Edges: stitched edges resist fraying and peeling, but if the stitching stands above the surface, your wrist or mouse hits a ridge at the edge. Look for low, flat or recessed stitching.
• Base: the rubber must grip the desk. A pad that slides when you flick distorts every drill.

Cleaning and replacing

Sweat and skin oil make a cloth pad slower and uneven over time. Wash it every month or two: lukewarm water and a little mild dish soap, brush gently with a soft brush or your palm along the weave, rinse well and let it air-dry flat or hanging, out of direct sun and without a hot hair dryer. Do not use it until it is fully dry, or it collects dust faster.

Wipe a hard pad with a damp cloth or a little water, and avoid anything that could scratch it.

Time to replace: the area where the mouse usually sits is shiny and much faster than the rest, the edges curl and will not lie flat, or the surface pills or tears. A new pad usually takes a few days to a week before it feels settled.

Questions

Are speed pads for better players?

No. Many top players use control pads and many use speed pads. The choice depends on your sensitivity, grip and the kind of targets you fight most, not on skill level.

Pad or sensitivity first?

Roughly settle sensitivity first, then pick a size from it. Keep your current surface until sensitivity is stable, then consider a change.

Can a pad change my DPI?

Normally no. Mouse sensors read correctly on most cloth and hard pads. A few very reflective or transparent surfaces can confuse them, which shows as jumps or dropouts. For DPI itself, see DPI and sensitivity.